A Sonobuoy-Sized Expendable Air-Deployable Directional Wave Sensor
Obtaining wave information from small expendable air-deployable buoys is important for numerous military operations, civilian applications, and research purposes. Such buoys may be deployed...
Buoy Directional Wave Measurements Using Magnetic Field Components
Directional wave data can be estimated using the heave, pitch and roll motion of a discus buoy, which are conventionally measured by a pitch-roll sensor. To reduce the size and cost, this...
Anomalous Dispersion Paradox in Shallow Water Gravity Waves Shoaling Over Slopping Bottom
Pecularities of celerity spectra of shoaling gravity waves are considered. The results of flume and field experiments focused on the measurements of celerity spectra of shoaling gravity...
A Method for Locating Spikes in a Measured Time Series
Raw directional wave sample time series are frequently contaminated with spikes from various sources. The standard procedure in correctly editing these time series includes locating and...
Estimation of Directional Spectra by ML/ME-Methods
The paper discusses the statistical Maximum Likelihood (ML) and Entropy (ME) methods for estimation of directional wave spectra. A combined ML/ME method is derived, and a reduced version...
Evaluation of a Third-Generation Wave Model for the U.S. Atlantic Coast
Accurate description of surface wind fields in ocean spectral wave modelling is of critical importance to estimating storm - induced wave conditions along a coastal reach. A new approach...
Wave Monitoring in The Southern California Bight
An overview of recent research by the Coastal Information Program (CDIP), aimed at effectively monitoring wave conditions in the Southern California Bight, is presented. The topographic...
Decay of Random Waves on Non-Monotonic Profiles
A model is presented to calculate the decay of random waves in the surf zone with special focus on non-monotonic profiles. A wave-by-wave approach is employed to derive a model that requires...
The Development of a Wave Data Analysis Standard for a National Wave Measurement Program
The Field Wave Gaging Program (FWGP) at the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers' Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) collects and analyzes wave data from around the U.S. coastline to contribute...
Experimental Study of Undertow and Turbulence Intensity Under Irregular Waves in the Surf Zone
Experiments are performed in a two-dimensional wave tank with a sloping beach. Irregular waves are generated and the water particle velocity is measured in the surf zone with a laser Doppler...
Physical Modelling of Multidirectional Waves
A sixty-segment wave generator has been used since 1985 at the Coastal Engineering Laboratory of the National Research Council (NRC) of Canada to generate multidirectional waves, and study...
Shoaling of Wave Spectra in Front of Reflective Structures
Breakwater and jetty design depend in part on the incident significant wave height expected to reach the structure. This height is not always known and must be estimated from a deepwater...
A New Correction Procedure for Shipborne Wave Recorder Data
A new correction procedure for Shipborne Wave Recorder (SBWR) wave height and spectral data is described. The method is based on a reassessment of the available frequency response measurements...
Extensive Comparison of Directional Wave Analysis Methods From Gauge Array Data
In order to settle an efficient operational wave gauge array for estimating directional wave spectrum, several directional analysis methods are implemented and compared. These methods...
Kinematics of Wave Overtopping on Marine Structure
Kinematics of transient wave overtopping on coastal breakwaters has been studied both experimentally and numerically. For the laboratory experiments, solitary waves with moderate wave...
Estimating Laboratory Wave Reflection Using Laser Doppler
Estimates of irregular wave reflection in two-dimensional laboratory wave tanks are typically accomplished using an array of spatially separated wave gauges. This paper presents a frequency...
Observations of Wind Wave Growth by ERS-1 SAR
Spatial variations of ocean waves can be observed from space-borne synthetic aperture radar (SAR) images of ocean surface. For a steady offshore wind, the growth of wind wave from an upwind...
Optical Remote Sensing of Wave Surface Kinematics
The measurement of the directional properties of surface slopes, velocities and accelerations is difficult, even in the laboratory, under conditions of steep, random and short-crested...
Breaking Wave Measurement by a Void Fraction Technique
Breaking of steep surface gravity waves in seas under moderate to strong wind forcing always involves the entrainment of air into the water column below the air-sea interface. As such,...
Wave Transformation and Load Reduction Using a Small Tandem Reef Breakwater ? Physical Model Tests
The performance of several small reef breakwaters, and a tandem breakwater system (consisting of a reef breakwater positioned upwave from a surface-piercing main breakwater), are quantified...
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